In no particular order, here is some general maintenance & parts replacements to the dated 28 year originals which I changed over the course of last year. This is just what I have managed to take photos of, there is still a lot more to be documented.
New OEM oil & fuel caps, which would also fit the Cordia.
Old
New
Rubber seal appears to be full width on the newer cap
New oil cap
The start of a cleaner looking engine bay, I began replacing a whole bunch of rusted & paint chipped body coloured mounting bolts & screws.
x12 OEM mounting bolts for the front guards & nose panel (2 not shown)
x4 screws for headlamp protectors
Before & after of the front guard bolts
Before & after of the nose panel bolts replacement
Before & after of the headlamp protector screws
The old 28 year old bolts which can now be used as spares elsewhere & out of sight
Another replacement cap, this time the P/S Reservoir.
Old cap with sticker
New & old comparison, the updated cap is a nice upgrade with engraved lettering rather than a sticker
New cap fitted
And the beginning of cleaning up the spaghetti of vacuum hoses, starting with the deleting the EGR.
EGR valve replaced & blanking plate fitted. Earth cable retained as seen
T-piece joiner replacing the factory 4 port joiner as there is now 1 less hose used
Manifold vacuum port blocked off with shortened hose & bolt (now capped off with a rubber cap)
EGR solenoid vacuum port also blocked off with shortened hose & bolt (now capped off with a rubber cap)
The parts removed
Now with the EGR removed, I also replaced the broken thermo valve with a 3/8 "BSP hex-socket plug to take it's place & further deleting more vacuum lines.
Plug & thread sealant ready to go on. Unfortunately at the time there were no stainless plugs in stock as I had intended
Thread sealant applied & plug fitted
The removed busted thermo valve with previous attempted repairs
One of many leaks on this car & one that was progressively getting worse was the gear shift mounting plate gaskets.
New OEM gaskets, MD703655 gasket now discontinued! Last 1 from Mitsubishi JP
The leak
The gearbox & under body soaked in oil
As this was originally an automatic car, 2 of the 4 bolts had to be removed from under the car
Gearbox mount had to be loosened & dropped slightly for the bolts to be removed
Gear shift partially disassembled & surfaces cleaned of old gaskets & sealant, note the new bushings also which make a world of difference
Reassembled with new gaskets & a slight amount of sealant to keep gaskets in place when reinstalling
Finished
Another leak which needed attention was the water hard pipe from the thermostat housing to the turbo.
The thermostat housing water pipe had corroded & resulted in a hole forming which was constantly leaking coolant past the hose & onto the housing. Despite replacing the rubber hose with an OEM replacement, a good seal still could not be achieved
The OEM replacement hose also appeared to be 'melting' on the other end, leaking onto the vacuum advance. Making this area a leaking mess!
With everything removed, I chose to use Permatex 'Cold Weld' bonding compound for a semi-permanent solution to repair the problematic water pipe. Once fully cured it can be sanded smooth
New OEM thermostat gasket to go on
Thermostat & gasket in place
Housing refitted along with a new OEM top rad hose
New steel braided hose replacement now in place of the old hard pipe
Next up was the leaking small heater hose which had ballooned seeking some preventive maintenance before getting worse.
The OEM replacement.
Old & new comparison.
To fit the hose, a mounting bracket bolt (below the exhaust manifold) had to be removed to move the pipe aside to slide the new hose on. I lucked out removing & reinstalling it without removing the manifold
Next was the OEM upper radiator hose replacement
New & old comparison
Installed
Some more braided hoses fitted & a quick clean & polish of the turbo
With only a minor leak from the old inlet manifold gasket to go now, I chose to move onto a more sinister oil leak which I left the best for last. Not knowing if it was the rear main seal or oil pan, I decided it would be a good time to replace the clutch anyway & for my own peace of mind replace every seal & gasket like I had been, seeing as most other things I discovered on this car were either still original or just no good from neglect of the previous owners.
The leak in question. Also notice the home made bell housing cover which we quickly made up as the last owner left uncovered since converting it to manual
Draining the gearbox
Gearbox removed
Flywheel removed & with oil as far as the eye could see
New OEM seal & case gasket
Old & new seals
Area cleaned of old sealant & gasket & any other oil that was kicked up onto the back of the engine
New seal & gasket refitted as well as a small amount of red RTV
Newly machined flywheel & new spigot bearing pressed in
New Exedy HD clutch replacement
Gearbox in the process of being cleaned & old parts removed
Upon removing the clutch fork, the metal clip that attaches to the pivot ball was snapped in 2 from the fork
A new OEM clutch fork had to be purchased locally for a hefty price! Unfortunately I couldn't wait to import as I needed the car back on the road ASAP
Gearbox cleaned & new clutch fork & throw-out bearing installed
New OEM gearbox rear oil seal
New seal fitted
Oil pan removed & surface area cleaned of old sealant & gasket. For ease of removal, the front sway bar mounting points must be unbolted (2 bolts on either side) & sway bar pulled down on until the pan can slide past
Oil pan cleaned & new aftermarket Fel-Pro gasket ready to go on, OEM gasket no longer available
Clutch & oil pan reinstalled
Drive shaft sanded down with 320 grit sand paper of old flaking paint
2 light layers of primer & gloss black engine enamel were used
Upon reinstalling the gearbox, the oil pan was dropped & drained of any remaining fluid as well as a clean up of the area
New OEM pan gasket & drain plug kit
New & old drain plugs
Oil pan gasket in place held down with a smear of red RTV on the underside corners of the gasket
Pan reinstalled, new drain plug fitted & bolts torqued
New Redline Shockproof gear oil to finish the job! 2 ² bottles were used to sufficiently fill the gearbox. I can safely say that next time I have to remove the box it will be on a hoist!
Moving onto some more preventive maintenance & replacing those close to 30 year old parts were new OEM fuel filters, both in-tank & engine bay.
New OEM fuel filter & washers
What looks to be the original fuel filter unchanged. For ease or removal, both ends of the hoses were removed from fuel rail & fuel hard line
Once removed, the filter was placed in a vice & a 19mm socket wrench & spanner were used to break the eye bolts from the filter
All 4 new washers & hoses fitted & torqued while off the car (new braided lines & modified top hat now in place)
Filter mounted & all hoses reconnected. To reconnect the bottom hose it is easier to work from under the car for better access to the fuel hard line. It will require a 14mm & 19mm spanner to loosen/tighten back up
New OEM in-tank fuel filter
Old (original?) Filter removed from tank. To remove the filter the tabs must be squeezed & pressed in away from the pipe assembly
Wiped clean
New filter fitted & reinstalled
That's about all I have bothered taking photos of this far, there is still a whole bunch of newer updates which I haven't even started taking photos of yet, but they will come shortly. These just fill the gaps & also show some of the neglected maintenance which this car was in dire need of. See mods list in the first post for full details of upgrades.