[img][img]Hello Everyone,

New to this forum, looks pretty good so far!

I have been trying to get some help with my issue and came across this forum in my research

So I've got a 1800 Sirius Turbo in a A172 Lancer. I purchased the engine from a guy that decided to crossbreed his original Turbo lancer. I did the install myself and the car has been running very reliably since. However the performance is not good at all. Out of boost the car accelerates from a stop very slowly, much like the 1.4 NA engine that I took out of the car. After boost kicks in (9psi) the car starts to accelerate but not what you would expect out this engine.

So here are the details
4G62BT Sirius mated to a 2WD 4D56 4 speed Automatic Transmission (same tranny code as what is in my V44W Pajero)
9psi boost, original Turbo Lancer intercooler, MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Boost meter in the instrument panel and aftermarket on the dash - tap off from before the Pressure Exchange Solenoid

Checks done so far
Added a Walbro 255 inline fuel pump in front - wanted to know if it was a fuel pressure issue
Change spark plugs - NGK BKR7ES-11 (Gap 38 thou)
Checked Timing - Crank Pulley at TDC , CAM line up on the mark
Serviced Injectors
Checked and serviced the Pressure Exchange Solenoid
The Boost meter is working, so does this confirm that the Pressure Sensor is working?
Checked Distributor - Cap, Rotor, Vacuum Advance, no issue found
Checked Diagnostic lead with multimeter

I plan to do a compression test this weekend.

There is no one-way valve on the Distributor Vacuum advance, i saw this in one of the posts.

Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated guys.

Rakesh.

Check your vacuum advance unit on the dissy, it's probably blown if no one way valve is present, the diaphragm ends up seeing boost which they do not like.

Do you have a vacc leak between the AFM, intercooler and throttlebody?

This will also cause the 62 to "bog" down as fuelling will be very rich causing the engine to stumble as the AFM can't read the metered air.

When you "snap" the throttle open does it rev cleanly?

Thanks for your response Bitza!

I have a hand vacuum pump i use to bleed brake lines, when i put this on the Vac Advance on the distributor give it a couple pumps the actuator moves and stays. It only returns when i disconnect the hose. I took this as the Vac Advance working and in order.

I understand what you are saying about the Vac leak here, i will check it through. I know if i disconnect any of these hoses the engine cuts off.

I would say that it revs clean, but i find that it takes long to build rpm.

I used a timing light on the engine last night. It was closer to TDC so i pulled it back to 5 deg before. Took a test drive, worked slightly better but still no real difference. Don't know if its mind over matter.

Rakesh.

5 degrees?

Is this a leaded or unleaded engine?

You can safely run 10 degrees before top dead centre on these engines, just make sure you plug the vacc line BEFORE you test the timing, this will set the BASE timing without the vacc advance.

Just looked at your photo again, what ECU are you running?........the injection system looks like starion and is to suit a 2.0 litre motor not 1.8..........does it use alot of fuel?

What does your vacuum gauge read on idle?

I have seen this on another car, it ran poorly only to find it was running on 1 fuel injector, just because they are clean doesn't mean they work. To check spray pattern remove the AFM connection then remove the crossover pipe and start the engine, observe if the injectors are spraying properly.

Let us know how you get on.

Have a look here in the meantime:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16819&p=162259&hilit=error+codes#p162259

Better than a multimeter.

Hey Bitza,

thanks for the info. I've been doing some work on the car and i feel as if i am digging a deeper hole than i am already in.

The fuel is super unleaded 92 Octane
What Vac should i be seeing at idle? I need to measure this.

I did the setup with the LED on the diagnostic lead, this works fine. I also installed a fuel pressure regulator so i can monitor the fuel pressure. At startup from cold there is 1 flash (O2), even after the engine warms up it still flashes. The manuals says rev to 1300 rpm, did this but there is no change. Rev to about 4000 and the LED turns solid. Take the car for a drive and then it starts to flash 6 times. 6 is the ISC motor but this works because the idle dies of normally as the engine warms up. so i'm a bit confused.

I disconnected the AFM and took out the intake manifold to see the injector spray. I saw the both injectors working but i thought that the spray was very heavy. I know you said that with the AFM disconnected this would happen.

So here is the issue now. After all of this, the engine is dumping fuel and working far worse than before. When i go into boost the car is sputtering (something that has never happened before). I checked back everything a few times but it is still happening. Last night i connected an inline fuel pump with inlet and return in a 1 litre container of fuel directly on the engine to eliminate any fuel issue. After driving less than 1km and back (going into boost only once) the container was almost empty. I did this because i noticed that the pressure on the FPR falling off terribly when i rev to 5-6K rpm.

I am stuck, except i believe the O2 sensor is bad.

Rakesh.

OK.........Your 02 sensor is fine, I put a brand new one in my AC (unleaded) and it does the same thing.

Vacc on idle should be between 20 - 25 HG.

Error code 6 can be a PAIN!.......The ISC is part of the TPS, if these are incorrectly set the engine will idle and run erratically and either stall or sit at 1500rpm after coming to a quick stop. This is sometimes not evident when the engine is running normally.
Adjust the TPS so when you "tap" the throttle is revs till just above 1100rpm, don't worry about what the manual says as it gives you voltages, this will also cause the engine to stutter if incorrectly set, as the ECU thinks the throttle is open.

Believe me setting this will drive you crazy, it took me over a week to get it right!!!!

Don't forget to remove the negative battery lead after adjustments, this will re-set the ECU.

As for the fuel, the only thing I can ask you is did you connect the vacc line to the FPR?.......can't see how your fuel pressure drops off at high RPM unless your fuel pump is knackered. (should maintain constant fuel pressure at atmospheric pressure)

To me it sounds like your FPR is stuck open, here is a trick, run the engine, grab a set of multi-grips, crimp off the return line to the tank, watch your fuel pressure gauge rise (do this a couple of times)...........if the pressure drops beyond 45 psi once back in the running position then replace the reg, just by adding extra fuel pressure tends to relieve the diaphragm from it's base.

If it's dumping so much fuel (as they do cold) I would suggest looking at the Coolant temp sensor (CTS) as this is the only way the ECU regulates fuelling as the engine warms up........have seen this before on a car with no error code, just because the ECU thinks it's working (still has voltage) the engine ran full injector pulse once hot.

Does your car blow black smoke out of the exhaust on idle, cold or hot?

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers,
Andrew.

Thanks again for your reply

The O2 gives me .9V constant at idle (engine at operating temp)

I took out the ISC and checked it. Extending and retracting and continuity to ground as described in the manual. The engine idles very steady and there is no visible smoke even when i rev the engine. When i had set the timing to 5deg the car got more responsive, i was happy with this.

I saw in the manual that some ECI systems work with one injector (small) and the other opens at higher speeds (large). Whereas some work together (alternating). Mines seem to be the latter.

I am going to install a pressure gauge on the inlet side to once and for all 'see' what is happening to the fuel pressure while driving. I will also check the CTS reading cold and hot.

Rakesh.

Progress at last!!
I was finally able to locate the source/cause of the sputtering. After all the checking and re-checking it turned out to be the BOV, it was bleeding off the boost but it was doing it quietly so i didn't pick up on it before.

Now that i am back to the point i started off more or less, i went ahead and installed the in-line fuel pump in the engine bay again. Rev the engine and the FPR pressure did not fall off.

Took the car for a road test and it is working noticeably better. Not where i would like it to be but more responsive on pull off and in boost.
Bitza, i need your opinion here. when i installed the engine i upgraded the exhaust to 2.5", however i didn't notice till some time after that the guy left the original flange on the down-pipe for the EGT sensor. This appears to be a restriction. Do you think this would contributing to my performance problems? I am not using the EGT since from what i saw it doesn't interface with the ECU in any way, only a light on the dash.

I will try moving the timing to 8 deg BTC and see how it works.

Rakesh.

What is the size of the flange?

Even a 2 inch pipe off the back of a TC05 will not cause poor performance.

Can you post a pic?

How about you provide video/s of the car running, would save a lot of time trying to pinpoint the problem.

_________________
Hi everyone: I'm "Pedro"

So after going through some other posts on the forum and some more research, i realized that no one was running 9psi and those with coolers were running closer to the 14psi or higher with the fuel cut defender or the yellow wire snipped.

Looking at my setup (IC and FPR) I realized that i could run at least 12psi

Last night i modified the boost pressure to the actuator. Boost surged to 11psi and leveled off at 10psi.

Significant improvement in performance! The car has come alive. Getting a little wheel spin from 1st to 2nd too.

I need to play around with this a bit. The boost cut should ensure that i don't mess up the engine.....

So a colleague who had this engine years ago told me he ran 16psi without issue.

I found a FCD circuit online using a LM358 IC and built it. Bench tested it and it works like a charm. Wired it into the car last night. I will need to test and adjust to see how close i can get to 4.7V

I want to see how the car will perform at 14psi. Don't plan to go higher than that though.

You will find if you "clip" your voltage in the FCD at 3.8 volt the ECU will bring the boost on quicker, in some cases you can actually get full boost out of first gear!

The FCD works well, no boost cut and the boost meter on the dash works normal. When i had temporarily disconnected the yellow wire it did not.
Initial pull is good, but the car seems to dying out afterwards. Took it for a run on more open road and it was the same, didn't go past 140KM/hr. I am thinking it is fuel so i need to work on being able to 'see' the fuel pressure while running.

Hey Bitza, thanks again for the input. I will give it a try and see how it works.