hey guys so i wired up the boost guage today and well it is not working ??? all it does is light up and thats it ?? can any1` help me with this boost guage please , also!!! i took my cordia for a little drive today just out of town and it has no kick what so ever first gear is fine second gear is okay .... 3rd 4th and 5th is just nothing there is no power at alll .... i wouldnt have a clue whats causing this and i was just wondering if anyone has a problem like this ??? the boost guage on the dash near the speedo goes up to about half way but thats it ..... is it lack of driven as its been sitting for a while.... im not sure please help

You just recently fitted larger rims right? I would bet these are a lot heavier than your stock rims. Therefore, more effort is required to rotate them.

In addition to this, they roll on a larger radius as they are 17s. This requires more work from your engine (Which it doesn’t have) to accelerate as it did prior to fitting the larger rims.

Because of all this, it is expected that your stock 4g62 would struggle in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears.

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

boost leak of some form, check all your cooler pipes and vacuum lines and continue on from there

make sure hose pipes are tight

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

did you even plumb in the vac/boost lines to your boost gauge?

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FRONTN-Cordia GSR |Tim|
|VR4 4G63BT|MicroTech LT8S|E7RS 9.8T TD05HR|560cc|Buddyclub P1|White on white||evo 2 brakes|
167fwkw @ 8200rpm 400nm (16psi)

PS: Lol @ spell check, it doesn't even know what a "Cordia" is.

Tim, his setup runs a solenoid in the bay and sends a signal to the gauge.

Tatus, either you have the wiring incorrectly wired (most likely), or you have purchased a gauge with a faulty boost solenoid.

It is very possible that you have been ripped off on eBay, join the club!

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

yea all the wireing is 100% correct i think the guage is fudged fudging bastards .

so, after you bought and fitted an aftermarket gauge your car feels slower and your standard gauge only goes up half way?

hard to remember coz i always had an aftermarket gauge, but i assume the standard gauge is supposed to go up the full way. if this is correct then you have a boost leak! that would explain both the above problems.
i would start by checking all the newly installed lines and the boost gauges map sensor for leaks.

good luck

Or no boost at all and it is just acting as a naturally aspirated engine. Defective waste gate?
Bigger or heavier rims won't make that much difference.

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AA GSR 1984
Still stock except for slightly larger custom exhaust but the rust advances

Before I begin, please don’t take this as an attack as im merely trying to prove my point.

A defective wastegate due to a boost gauge install and a set of larger rims, this doesn’t happen as there is no relation. Boost leak is possible or maybe a damaged diaphragm in the actuator which controls the wastegate, but definitely not a defective wastgate. (Btw it’s not a diagram leak either as this would cause over boosting and an incorrect afm readout).

First and second gears are fine (I do wonder why), is this because he has a defective wastegate in gears 3, 4 and 5? Or would it make more sense to realise that standard cordias didn’t really have much power new, and now that his is between 22 - 27 years old and runs on 17” rims (which it was never designed for), has even less.

Now let’s get into a little bit of physics and the design side of things. Have you heard of polar moment of inertia? Just in case you haven’t, it is the measure of resistance to angular acceleration. This means there are added loads to his engine as the distance from the centre of rotation (centre of hub) has increased due to his larger radius rims.
Therefore, yes this effects acceleration which ever way you look at it (even if the rim were at same weight), whether it be driving in a straight line or braking due to an emergency. Why do you think Mitsubishi didn’t install 17’s standard?

The formula for moment of inertia consists of r^2, which goes to show the relation ship is non linear and infact resulting in a quadratic effort to rotate.

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

As above this is not an attack either...but if what you are saying is that installing 17's on a GSR has pretty much made the turbo null and void in terms of power, would that not mean that when i put 17's on my already gutless N/A 4g93 it would all but virtually stop? And for the even more gutless 1.5 N/A Lancer's would they even be able to move from stationary?

Sorry to be a sceptic of what you've said, but I don't believe that 17's is the reason that the car has no power in 3rd upwards. Correct me if I'm wrong but a standard GSR's peak torque figure was not i first gear. Thus, by your estimations you would assume that first and second would be the worst of the gears for power and 3rd/4th you would see the better performance while hitting peak torque?

Much like you have pointed out that a faulty actuator would affect all gears not just 3rd up, correct me if I'm wrong but your formula is based on constants without allowance for the unexplained opposite result that 1st and 2nd have?

Not denying that bigger wheels may impact the functioning of a car, just strongly believe that the affect would not be comparable to what is happening to this GSR (otherwise half the members of this forum would be whinging and I would be pushing my Lancer up hills not drive it )

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Cordia owner again in 1 day....

And not taken as one, in fact I admire your responses as they are backed up.

Put it this way, he has not mentioned any forms of flat spotting, hesitation, detonation or stalling, therefore none has been considered. I am hardly saying the 17’s will make the turbo null and cause a loss in all terms of power, as it won’t and it doesn’t. In addition, he has not stated the car does not hit boost in 3 rd gear onwards. Though, he has stated (over the phone) what I believe are the effects of not enough power to, I guess you could say, give enough pull in those gears to satisfy his needs/wants, fudge that sounds dirty .

And I agree, the cordias peak torque figure is not in first or second gear (I never said this), as it is recorded at the flywheel during some stage of its RPM. Though, the effects of torque are greatly felt in the lower gears, due to their turning effect. This is why cars have greater ability to break traction in lower gears.

Correct, the formula has nothing to with the opposite result, it was merely stated as an overall effect with a little sarcasim. Though, the turning effect of those gears is why I believe there is no problem here. Third in my cordias have been quite long (even in low range), don’t know about the rest of them.

Reason as to why half the members on this forum don’t complain is that 99% of them have modified cars. I like Tatus started with a 1.8 cordia (my previous car) and same thing happened to me, fitted bigger rims and it was pretty useless in third, fourth and fifth. By this I mean it had a lot less pull in these gears and not it had no power at all.

Hope this clears some of this up

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

Haha well said to all those points (glad it was taken the right way!)...you might just have a point too

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Cordia owner again in 1 day....

Hummm.............Koray we also need to have a look at rolling resistance verses drivetrain loss and initial interia to propel the car forward......after my time in trade school it only takes 3KW for propulsion.....AB cordia's came out with 13X70 tyres, adding 17's with (17X40) 10mm over will only increase the rolling resistance 1KW.

A 17 inch wheel and tyre will likely weigh a fair bit more than a 13 inch wheel and tyre of the same overall diameter. This means its inertia will be a fair bit more. My 16 inch wheel and tyre weighed 3 kg more than the stock rim and tyre and it is a fairly lightweight design.

My 18s weigh 25kg's each (with 215-35-18s)and boy do they make a difference, helps heaps with traction off the line though.

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

I noticed quite a difference when I replaced my stock rims with the 16's too.

the rims weighed about 13kg bare.. i have hand many different rims on my white cordia over the years and the seat of my pants meter could never really tell a difference in acceleration so any change was fairly minimal, and certainly not to the degree tatus is experiencing. i dont know what everyone else is like but when i start something i usually do a few other jobs at the same time, then do nothing untill the list grows again, chances are he was fiddeling with other things at the same time and something has changed, ie.

the fact that the stock boost gauge isnt working properly points to the fact that vac line have been muddled up or something when the gauge was installed.

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Quench my thirst with gassoline!

Sure there is probably a few things wrong. For a start tatus needs to check what boost pressure he really is getting. But changing to bigger heavier wheels will reduce your acceleration and it is more noticeable on lower powered cars.

I had a chat with Tatus over the phone the other day and he seemed to be familiar with what he was doing with the installation of his gauge.

And seriously how much can possibly go wrong with tapping into one single vac/boost line for a boost gauge anyway? It’s not exactly rocket science, im sure he has done everything right.

Tatus, we really need more input from yourself to help out.

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

IT could be simply a popped cooler pipe the is sealed on idle but on boost leaks ? i have had it, alost of cars have had poped cooler pipes, so long as they arnt ajar they dont stop the car from running

It dosnt have to be something with the gauge, he had the bonnet up anything could of be knocked its a cordia!!! lol they break down if u look at them the wrong way

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.