I pulled out my air flow meter and the honey comb is there ......... :S

So im not sure to be honest it must be screwed some how lol

If i cant find a working AFM i have a V6 pajero same year with a simlar AFM might try that one if it works lol

Is there any engine oil residue between the transmitter and receiver on the floor of the meter?

You can "degrease" the inside but be sure to let it dry, then re-test.

yea i belive there is i will get some Electrical cleaner 2morrow and try there is some oil in there but not much

ther is just residue on the inside i cant tell were it starts and ends lol

Does it matter if i spray the hole thing out?

The cleaner im going to use is a elextrical part cleaner its extreamly fast evap but i might spray it 2morow night then try again that morning

You will need to mainly concentrate on the transmitter and receiver..............but no, just clean the whole "guts" of the meter out, hopefully it will start working again.

Sweet lol i will give it a go just seems bizzare


that the car runs better without the airflowmeter in

so cleaning it might work lolz

once its all done i can put more boost in her lol

Well my assumption was wrong i drove again today and it just bogs down and stalls mind you that could be becasue i have a 5 puck clutch so it needs revs and without and airflow meter it dies as i have rev to 2500rpm so the car doesnt bunny hop

Any ideas

And i also plugs the afm back in and it idels just ruff lol

Well im fudged to know whats going on lol

Tonight i get ready to leave for work and the car wouldnt idle runing like a fudging pig lead upto boost feals like im going backwards then on boost fine

Pull into server check afm its fine

check all vac lines fine *after i drove to work fine *

So i turn the car off chekc the afm conections all good

So i keep her running and pull out the afm idle goes normal and runs great but drives like a pig lol put it back on and she is great im so fudging confused lol

Tomorrow im going to get some Electronic parts cleaner ina can and drown my afm


One thing i have realised my Vac advance on the dizzy is never conected????????????


So i connected it and it runs no differently lol


Any other ideas would be great

Does it run better cold?

Does the vac adv have the one way valve? if not then u will find issues there also, if it wasnt connected that means u have a vac leak or u pluged the line??

i would be rechecking ur vac diagram remember any holes in the intake system are no good

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

Well the other night i wouldnt idle at all just die in the ass untill on boost once i took off the vac advance it worked i might have to get a oneway valve for it but i have Electrical cleaner to clean out my afm and see what happends lol

So the Vac advance is meant to have a one way valve so i will have to find one

There is still a leak with everything pluged in so im not sure

I might just take all the vacume lines off and re do them all by that sheet somone got me and try that

Grrrr lol

Check the seal around the base of the x-over perhaps the rubber oring is totaly rooted and make sure the intake snout has no holes in it like were a vac line has been connected or removed.

mimic that vac diagram and see what happens.. if ur vac advance is seeing boost that can cause issues if its been blown u will need to find a new one, check FAQ i think theres something in there about checking it out

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

I dont have the normal xover pipe mate its all i/c

And the is no oring anymore

The Dizzy is geting a boosted vac

As there is no one way valve in there so i will have to get one but i have now completly dismantled the a/f meter and im leting it dry out and i will put it back to gether later on and home that fixes the problem

The afm was gummed up a bit plus i confirmed with my tuner and he said go to town on it with contact cleaner and just clean the shit out of it and it should be good to go and fix my idle

Well just a bit of an update

I Dissmanteled the Airflow meter and cleaned it i also checked for any signs of damage just in case . It came up all fine

So this morning i place it back in and fired the car and much to my suprise the idle didnt change one iota but in saying that my car runs as a hole so much better . Pulls like a freight train on crack lol i have never felt a cordia sohc pull like this did

So the problems i still have is

- Vac sitting around 15
- Idle goign between 1000 rpm and 1300rpm
- Driving at 60kh it bucks every so slightly


Now these are the only things i can think of

- Vacume leak somewere (i will re do the hole lot and see how it affects it )
- Ignition i.e Plugs fouled by dirty meter
- Spark jump off load (altho you would think it would cause and issue on boost also)

other then that my inlet manifold is leaking fuel but i wouldnt think its drawing air at low speeds ........


But she runs alot better so im chuffed but i still want the idle to be more consitant and i dont want a feeling of bucking at 60ks

but like i said it might just be me lol

Let me know what u guys think

Well

i dont know if this might casue my idle to be weird but after searching through all the reciptes

The head was rebuilt and the cam that was placed in Specs are

30 in open
70 in closes
70 ex open
30 ex closes

inlet .015 '
exhaust .015'

lift at cam .303'

30/70 Cordia cam Watson raceing cam

Let me know what you think

im not sure on durations but if it is lumpy it can imitate a vacuum leak on the boost gauge

again tho 60kmh isnt a usefull symptom, gear and rpm gives a better idea if its flat spotting under high load so say 3rd or 4th at 2-3k rpm thats around 60 i think it could be timing

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

given the vac advance has been seeing boost i'd be betting its timing.. i reckon you have another problem as well though like an afm on its way out

running rich untill you hit boost can point to boost sensor or afm...

the golden rule is being forgotten.. -=> check the error codes<=-

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Quench my thirst with gassoline!

Well that gives you 280° duration a lobe centre of 110° and over lap of 60°
so that would give you a slight cam feeling at around 2000 rpm in my opinion
Sounds like a similar grind to what i had though 1 was running multipoint.
The cam in my escort used surge at 4700 rpm but once it 5000rpm it went real hard..
just for info the std cams are...

std ab cam is 21/63 63/21 264° duration 111° lobe and overlap of 42°
std ac cam is 19/57 57/19 256° duration 109° lobe and overlap of 38°

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One step closer to the end...........
...............deceased and cremated

I did an ecu error code i got nothing there is not a single error lol

I even got somone else to plug in there ecu to check an di got nothing both times

Now somone did say there should be a valve on the advance on the dizzy but what directions is the valve to go ............


And doing that u think will fix my issue lol

THROTTLE BODY <<<VALVLE DIRECTION <<<VAC ADVANCE you dont want it to see boost only vacuum check the diagram it has it on there

Sorry i was wrong there is another diagram floating around but you get the idea

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"hahhahahhaa its good its got straw for a pipe frontn.... the bigger that hole gets the more money falls out of ur wallet... "



Epic i must say.

i will try that out today and see how we go will keep you posted *fingers cross *

i will also fix my exhaust leak as well lol