Hello everyone!

I just bought a 88 Cordia Last week and I'm ready to modify the living flywheel off of this car. All I need is some technical help. The car is a TC05 with a 5sp tranny. The car is in piss poor shape. It has plenty of dents and burns a little oil. I was surprised that the A/C actually works. I traded a computer for it, then towed it to my friends shop. So far I fixed:

1) Ball joints
2) Rack and Pinion
3) Starter
4) Master Cylinder (Brakes)
5) Brake calipers
6) Oil change
7) Placed Red Line Gear lube in the Tranny
8) Replaced all windshield wipers
9) Purchased a K&N Air filter intake (waiting to install it)

From what I've read the last couple of days, the limitation of this car is really the computer. Is it true it will not understand anymore then 14lbs of boost? If thats the case, I calculate a 160 HP maximum out of this car with the computer limits. Maybe the Eclipse/Talon Turbo Engine is the best alternative (2.0 T). I just don't know whats all involved in doing the conversion. Also, how will the car respond? I want it to drive smooth, and run like a raped date when I step on it. Plus, I want the car to hold all this fun abuse. Honestly, if I can do the motor swap... I would then expect 24lbs of boost. Will this realistically work out? I have $ for this project, but I'm not rich. So I only have one shot at this. Please advise! Thanks.
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PEACE-
Tampa, FL

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PEACE-
Tampa, FL

you've asked a mouthful... okay, you want your cordia to haul? do this...
purchase one galant VR4 motor in the highest spec you can find. blue injectors are okayTD05 a must. install said motor. rebuilding the gearbag/drive shafts before you do this is a very good idea. install one microtech computer with sequential fire or whatever your american equivalent is that'll do a good job. theninstall a good high pressure fuel pump. pirchase one large intercooler and have it front mounted. raise boost to 18 psi and you'll be laughin. raise it to 250psi and say bye bye head gasket in all likelyhood. and possibly rring lands. if you wanna get your motor rebuilt with forged pistons and a metla head gasket and a bigger blower, 25 psi will be fine as long as the fuel system is up to it. some good tyres and you might see 12s... total outlay = 15odd grand

cheaper option:
you want your cordia to go like 90% of cordia's in australia? do this
replace motor with VR4 motor.
car goes fast now. cost: $4000 odd done right. aussie dollars that is.

cheapest option:
isntall rx7/supra front mount.
raise boost to 12psi (you've only got the TC05 motor, and more and say bye bye engine as it leans out and grenades.) cost. $500. car still gets eaten by commodores.

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Gallo 24 all the way

The eclipse motor is the equvilent of the VR4 motor I believe.

This combined with the lighter weight of the cordia, with a few mods, should give you the power you desire.

If it is insufficient you can easily pull it out again, and fully work it for maximum performance.

yeah, pretty sure the eclipse uses the good ol 63

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Gallo 24 all the way

Thanks for the info:

Lets make this simple. 1st what is the American corida turbo called? This car I have, the fastest 1/4 mile time I can get is "?" with a stock motor with:

A) Air/Filter
B) Ram Air (Tube that redirects cold air to the filter element)
C) 3" exhaust w/ no cat-converter
D) Magnecore spark plug wires
E) Red Line oil in motor and Gear lube in tranny
F) Intercooler (Nothing fancy, but functional)
G) Probrably 15lbs of boost max
H) Nice tune up (Timing, fuel pressure riser, fuel filters...)
I) Racing clutch (50% copper 50% asbestos)

My guess is 15.5 secs (This is with a good driver, myself). I can get all this done by next Friday. I will be replacing the valve stems tomorrow. I also got rid of all the bugs in the car... yeah bugs... Spiders. The car apparently was sitting for 7 months on a grassy field. Anyways, lets explore the mildly stock option 1st then progress from there.

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PEACE-
Tampa, FL

okies dokie

A) Air/Filter
good element will help breathing a little. realistically won't notice the diff (except the placebo "i just spent $50 it feels faster dammit!" effect.)
B) Ram Air (Tube that redirects cold air to the filter element)
ram air won't do shite. cold air will. stock system isn't too bad unless you really start making some power. just put a good filter in your airbox
C) 3" exhaust w/ no cat-converter
you need a cat for emmisiions i assume?, fines for not having one here are damn steep, dunno about america, but just use one, a good one wont restrict flow.
D) Magnecore spark plug wires
eh. are the old one's shot? at least new wires are cheap. ain't broke? don't fix.
E) Red Line oil in motor and Gear lube in tranny
people say this is good, i've got nfi.
F) Intercooler (Nothing fancy, but functional)
RX7 front mount will boost till the cows come home for it's size. and cheap to boot.
G) Probrably 15lbs of boost max
didn't i mention something about injectors? your computer and fuel system won't do more than 12psi safely. stick to that.
H) Nice tune up (Timing, fuel pressure riser, fuel filters...)
good idea in any car.
I) Racing clutch (50% copper 50% asbestos)
nfi. just get one that works.

should get it to run 15.5 with decent rubber. maybe better if you find that thing we cordia owners can't seem to find called grip. good luck man.

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Gallo 24 all the way

Thanks again for the info guys...

Question: Why can you only boost 12lbs max? What if I upgrade the fuel pump and fuel injectors? By the way, are you saying I will hit fuel cut off at 12lbs or gradually lean out the higher I go? I plan to use a Rich/Lean gauge and an ERG gauge to point out when danger is near.

UPDATE: Just installed the Valve stems seals (Intake and Exhaust) and also the valve cover gasket. No more blue smoke.

FACT: Cold air makes a big difference becuase its dense (Heavy) which provides a bigger BANG when mixed with gas and lit by the sparkplugs.

ABOUT RAM Air: RAM Air does two things for you.

1) As we know cold air sinks, and hot air raises. The RAM air scoops up all the cold air close to the ground level of the road. (Not for Off road use). What I plan to do is take the intake filter and enclose it with a huge hose tube that is directly pointed close the road surface (Will have a mesh fence on the face opening). This means that the air filter will breathe the air coming from the road instead of the hot air trapped under the hood.

2) The 2nd thing the RAM air will do is "RAM" or "Force" air directly into the air filter element; which increases with velocity the faster you go. We know the car will suck a certain amount of CFMs (Air speed) when we hit the gas... So, why don't we just help it a little by bring the air to his lungs.

NOTE: A turbo hood opening is not good enough for RAM Air, therefore you have null results. Next time, get a 10" hose and stick it above your sunroof pointing forwards and drive 75Mhp while pointing it at your passenger... I bet it would blow his eyebrows right off (Just kidding, but I've made my point). LOL.

By the way, the USA does require Cat-converters... but, the county in the State I live in does not require them. So, I will have a 3" straight pipe with a performance muffler on the ends that outputs into dual exhaust pipes. (Using Mandrel bends on the angles around the gas tank)

As far as my clutch... its a bit weak, so I will upgrade it. I have a friend, so it will be cheap for me.

As far as Red Line. Get it. At least in your tranny. I wouldn't race without it. Also, the best combination for your radiator is 50% distilled water (Meaning no inpurities) and 50% radiator fluid + 1 12oz bottle of Red Line water wetter. Red Line products will drop the temperature coeficient considerably. Believe it.

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PEACE-
Tampa, FL

The car is almost road ready. Next thing on the list is:

1) Alignment (The TOW is off a little) *Eating tires
2) Need two tires (Balance the rest)
3) Stock boost gauge stopped working (It used to work before) Hmm?
4) Going with a stock clutch (Friend too busy)
5) Exhaust (Going with 3", no cat, single muffler out)
6) Anyone have lowering springs you can sell me?
6a) What do you think about lowering clamps?
7) Anyone have pictures on installing an RX-7 Front mount IC?
8) Magnecore spark plug wire USD $70.00 (Waiting on the mail)

NOTE: The higher your rev the thinner the electrical arch from the spark plug wire to the spark plug. Magnecore wires doesn't make the electrical arch any thinker, but it makes sure that it stays the same thickness throught the RPM band. So, you only benefit around 4,000 RMP and up.

9) Anyone know if you can use a better CAM? Is it even worth it?

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PEACE-
Tampa, FL