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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 09:58 
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about the alternator?
is it possible i connected wrong?
had to remove the original cordia plug to put a plug of other car alternator.
light comes on as i start car and stays on checked the charge on battery and
not charging till i rev it up them it decides to charge


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 10:02 
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Your car: DOHC 2.3 VR4 85 AB GSR
Immaculate Stock 86 AC GSR
You put a 75 amp alternator on there, they have a larger pulley than the 65 amp original, this means it will now take that "little" extra to get the regulator working to excite the battery light to turn it off.

You will only need to be concerned if the battery light comes on under normal operating conditions.


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 10:11 
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fernandothecarguy wrote:
update:
so far its been good drive it every day to work no problems till now.
well 1 problem is fixed the gear shifter.
problem 2 now is my battery light it stays on once i start the car.
it only goes off when i rev it a bit.
yesterday going to work for some reason engine stopped , i was half way to work.
managed to turn key and it started back up to find idle @ almost hitting zero .
had to hold hand break and keep revs @ 1k or it would die out.
after work or going home started car and was fine back to normal.
i have no idea why it caused me dramas in morning.
about the bat light staying on ,so i been busy looking for a alternator.
i assumed is alternator problem so i replaced it to find it does the same thing :(


Here is a trick for you, if your car still has the air-con loom fitted (aircon working or not) turn on the AC button and turn the fan on, this will cause the idle speed controller to up the idle, this will get you home until the problem is fixed, or if you have no aircon remove the AFM plug, restart and drive home.


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 10:17 
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replaced it with a brand new one meant to be original cordia AB 4g62


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 10:21 
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Here is a trick for you, if your car still has the air-con loom fitted (aircon working or not) turn on the AC button and turn the fan on, this will cause the idle speed controller to up the idle, this will get you home until the problem is fixed, or if you have no aircon remove the AFM plug, restart and drive home.[/quote]
good to know should i just remove afm altogether ?


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 10:24 
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what would happen if wires on alternator are wired wrong from the plug?


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 11:47 
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OK, the white wire goes to the alternator light back to the ignition switch, the yellow wire or sense wire goes back to the battery, which plug do you have now?

You can tell the wiring by looking at the silver decal, L is light, S is sense.


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 16:32 
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ok the original cordia plug was like this one
the color wires was red and white no yellow wire.


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 16:34 
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i removed that plug replaced it with this one the color wires were similar red white


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 16:36 
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so just wondering if wires are in wrong way what would happen ?


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 17:22 
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If they are around the wrong way (which they don't look to be) the alternator light (L) will see battery power, the sense (S) side will see the ignition switch back to the battery.

The system will still work, but I believe the rotating mass of your aftermarket alternator requires a few more rpm to get it going.


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 17:58 
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how can 2 alternators do the same thing?

another question im trying to find out on my afm what color wires are for the sensor?
is it the 2 green wires or red or white


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 18:10 
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fernandothecarguy wrote:
how can 2 alternators do the same thing?

another question im trying to find out on my afm what color wires are for the sensor?
is it the 2 green wires or red or white


My AC does the same thing if I just turn it over, not all the time though, your regulator (brushes) with a new alternator may still be trying to seat on the slip rings.

Have you checked your fusible link (IGN) in the box?

Is it brown instead of red?

As for your AFM the wire colours are:

Green/red - intake air temp
Red - Power 12V
Green/black - earth
White/Black - Signal


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 20:47 
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thanks mate
ok so i switched wires around on the alternator plug.
i couldn't stop wondering if this was the problem .
and it worked light on the dash didn't stay on.
as my son walks by me says how is it now?
i said brilliant just brilliant i was happy with huge smile .
i turn key to off engine was still running pull keys out of
ignition and showed my son keys in my hand with engine running .
we were both shocked but we laughed so much that i had tears in my eyes.
so lucky i didn't burn car down ROFL
anyway got it all back to normal


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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 12:01 
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ok i cleaned the inside afm box but not the sensor or any electrical parts.
so i had a look on youtube about afm sensor cleaning came across a lot
of videos so decided to get me a spray cleaner from supercheap.
pulled afm apart and started spraying everything.
im supposed to let it dry for 30min but it looks like it dried after 1 min LOL.
lets hope this is all it needs.
i also checked wires for continuity with my multimeter.
and nothing broken .


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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 12:05 
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2


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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 12:33 
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Getting there, did you check the rubber O ring on the front for cracks, wear etc?

Should be a nice resistance fit when put into the retaining sleeve (the one with the clips)


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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 13:35 
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yes rubber is pretty good.
took car for drive feels good so far
fill her up with petrol 98% octane on my petrol flap
have a sticker says 97% octane .
so either i get 92% ,94% or 98% from BP


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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 13:41 
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Leaded petrol obviously doesn't exist now, 98 unleaded won't kill it, will keep detonation at bay for the standard unit.


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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 13:44 
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came across electronic boost controller soon i'll be installing it with my fuel cut thingy.
also got me new rear bearings thats the only thing i haven't done.


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