hey guys im probably going to be re building one of my spare 62t's and was wondering if i could draw on all your knowledge on some of the best bang for buck stuff i can do to make it quick yet bulletproof. Im not building a drag car bY a long shot, my goal is a 13 second daily car. Like my et. Now with the et i know the internals are good for 400 odd horsepower without upgrading and i was wondering if its the case with cordias? Maybe if you guys have blown these before you can tell me what to look for and strengthen if possible? Id like 18psi daily if that helps? I figure with a little weight reduction 18psi, through a td05 should be good for high 13 with real good traction? Correct me if im wrong. Thanks in advance

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"BESSY"
SOLD

go for a 4g63 bottom end and the SOHC head, over sizes pistons, 2.2l upgrade with the td05 best of all world.
looks like a stock cordia when ya lift the bonnet but when ya put your foot down all hell will let go
or if ya want heap power just got for the 4g63 vr4 upgrade

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cheers but ill be sticking with my 62s for another year or 2 yet so all the info needs to be on the 1.8

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"BESSY"
SOLD

good to see your sticking rock solid to the 1.8 they are a dam good motor.
how much are you looking at spending??
what shape is the motor that you are running atm like??

i would go very close to what trav did a few years ago.
new cam you would have to ask him for spects,
td05, y not push it to a 16g if your wanting power,
cooler and exhaust your doing atm and for the money after market ecu, you can always use it down the track if your looking at doing big work on it

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well keep in mind when i say this that this will not be cheap. but is no where near expensive, and should be a good bang for buck street motor.

bottom end: arp head studs, arp conrod bolts. hypertec pistons. remove balance shafts, balance bottom end.
head: wade cam regrind. maybe double valve springs.
fuel/ignition: MPI manifold, evo or rx7 injectors. bigger pump. locked or sonata optical dizzy. programable fuel and ignition ECU.
turbo: highflow tc06 or td05-16G
exhaust
cooler
18psi ish.

Power isn't the problem, traction is. 13 second is an ask for a boosted open wheel FWD. I would promise that an LSD would drop a second if not more, not to mention the imporoved cornering capabilites.

As for pistons, forget hypertec and other shit. Either stay normal cast or go forged. I personally would stay with good std ones, just make sure the tune is right so there is no detonation. Definitely remove the balance shaft and have bottom end balanced. As said, an aggressive cam and maybe even an adjustable gear if you wanna get tricky with cam timing.
For power and reliability you should def go multipoint, nice fuel system and nice cooling system.

At the end of the day, it will cost you as much to build a 62 as it will a 63. From experience I know what one I would choose again.

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yeah, my original post didn't work for some reason.
but if your getting a cam, get a cam gear. VR4 cam gears work fine, you just can't run the top timing cover.

hypertec vs standard i wouldn't know. but the tune is definately the main thing to make sure about. i have broken forgies and cast pistons both on 18psi..... thanks to bad tuning. but if you can fork out the extra $$ go the forgies. having broken both, the forgies will stand up to waaaay more!


having built a SOHC, i am not sure which way i would go again. the twincam makes heaps more power a lot easier. but you also have the initial cost of a 100,000+ km engine vs a fresh rebuild.

also with the traction issue, an LSD is a great mod. but not cheap or easy to come by. there are other cheaper, easier, ways to help with traction..... suspension, tyres.
hell, i bought a pair of full m&h full slicks brand new for $300 a tyre.
and were not exactly talking rocket ships here, he's only chasing 13's!

I figure that you can do a 13 sec quarter mile in a Cordia with a combination of 120kw at the wheels, some weight reduction and good driving.

My budget 4g62 recipe: freshen standard engine, delete balance shafts, tc06 running about 18-20psi boost pressure, intercooler, exhaust, extra fuel injector depending on air fuel ratios, tweaking of ignition timing.

You could also add a 4g64 8 valve cylinder head which has bigger valves and ports so it will flow a lot better, but it will drop the compression ratio. You need to fix this by running even more boost

Speaking of traction, you will be amazed what suspension and rubber can do to a Cordia.

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

SIVART

Posted: Sun 03 Apr 2005, 3:57 pm

I ran it on the Gtech last night with no launch and g/f in the car to, I ran 13.98@165kms
Mods are:
AC motor pushing 200,000kms+
TC06 on 15psi
Rx7 front mount + BOV
2.5inch exhaust

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"BESSY"
SOLD

So according to that i can run 13s already?

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"BESSY"
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according to that he can run almost 14 on a g-tech, im unsure how accurate they are but there not a time slip, nor do you have his car.

comparing cars just buy 3 mods +25 years it is going to be impossible, maybe get it running perfect and go have a run and see what you get and work off that?

thing that blew my motor was to much advance and 16 psi on the standard injection,

I havnt gone multi yet, but im certainly not going to run as much advance as last time shame coz the pickup was realllllllly quick

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Epic i must say.

Ok well thats where i'll start. Im going to start ny stripping the block and seeing what i've got to work with. Does anyone know where i can get the rebuild specs for the 62? Exact bore specs, Piston sizes etc etc? Also What does deleting balance shafts achieve (parden the noob question) And as posted earlier with them removed does the crank need to be balanced? Also where abouts could i seat the 3rd injector, Does anyone have any pics of one setup? As it would be a good cheap option for high boost applications not too sure about daily driving and streetability tho. And last but not least what motor is the 8v Head off?

Cheers

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"BESSY"
SOLD

At the moment im running new Pedders Superlow Springs and gas shocks with Brand new Firestone, Firehawk Uni directional 17, 225's. Grip is actually surprisingly good except for 3.5k Rpm in 1st and 2nd !!!!! Also a Grumbly strut brace but thats mainly for cornering. Im going to pull out all my aircon setup and see how much weight that helps me lose.

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"BESSY"
SOLD

Don't get me wrong but firestones are crap! Even their high end rubbers are fairly average. Stick with what you have for now and see how far they get you but,if traction becomes quite a problem then go for something with more grip.

With my experiences in my cordia. Good tyres were the difference between spinning third every time I hit the throttle hard (yes even at over 120kph) and not being able to spin first. So yea, when you pay $350 a tyre you can have traction with a mild FWD (as mine was). Having said this, they did not even last me 10,000k (lol).

Im not saying you should go out there and spend such amount on tires (at this stage) as there is alot better value for money. Just keep im mind that with just good tires and suspension, traction shouldent be a big problem untill you reach 12's

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

Depends if i keep the 62 head i will be running a mild cam as i can get one for cheap $50. But i like the option of the 8v head and higher boost!
As for tune can anyone show me where the oxy sensor wires come from? As mines been removed. I would like to get a 3 wire sensor out of an excel or something similar and get a fuel mixture reader from Jaycar and make up my own tuning system.
And yes, LSD is definately way out of my budget!

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"BESSY"
SOLD

Hmmm i have a set of 80% tread Kumhos out the back. They're supposed to be better for grip yeah?

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"BESSY"
SOLD

If you going to tune you will need a wideband o2 sensor as narrow band
is not really useable , if you are capable of putting together electronic kits the this would be the go http://wbo2.com/2y/default.htm
cost is about $311 to your door. It's a australian designed kit to boot.

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One step closer to the end...........
...............deceased and cremated

Well it’s hard to judge a tyre by the brand. Especially if you consider that most if not all brands have their own entry level and high performance tyres.

Kumhos, in general have been known to be good bang for buck. But, it isn’t fair to compare two companies just by name. Mainly because all tyres have their own characteristics (for example, some are better than others in the wet)

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|VR4 4G63 RS|MicroTech lt8s|Ported TD06sl2-25g|Ported & Polished Head|HKS Front Mount|3" Exhaust|
|Coilovers|Swaybars|VR-4 2pot Calipers|TP rears|Evo3 Master/Booster|Evo 3 front bar|Side Skirts|Rear Lip|

I tested that Gtech , which I still own , its 0.2 out which was pretty good, the TD05 was a killer on responce compared to the tc06 ,

just freshen up rings , headgasket, new headbolts etc make the difference , but to run more that 14psi you will need a better fuel setup , mine was lacking that, it did run a 13s on 14psi as calder, on 185/65/14s yokahamas

but its possible,

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AB Silver original unrestored 1 owner car
AC Wanted $$$(must have 4g62t, or I can swap it back)

last cordia:
Blue 88 GSR turbo AC with 62t, TD05 14B and FMIC
(I WOULD LIKE IT BACK IF POSSIBLE, OLD REG SYH354)