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VR4 cordia work https://www.cordiapower.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17755 |
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Author: | Bitza [ 09 Feb 2015, 07:25 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
What did you do about the 2 holes and the tiny bit of rust Simon? looks very clean, what did you use to cover the hole for the rear washer, after you removed the rubber hose? |
Author: | 4cylturb [ 09 Feb 2015, 17:43 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
I'm bogging over those 2 holes...actually there are 4 of them, 2 hidden behind the number plate. You can see them in the photo above. Also the large oval hole that the rear washer bottle tube fed through i'm bogging over that too. I used a piece of plastic cut to shape from a CD cover to give me something to spread the bog onto for both the gap in the trim and the oval hole in the body. From the outside you won't know. The bog i'm using i would say is just as strong as fibreglass. I was going to use duplicolour tins to paint the back, but my neighbour has a compressor he's not using...so bugger it i'm going to paint the whole car. It'll be a garage job and it is now a whole lot more work. I've got some prepping to do. Have to go get some paint. Do you use a 50:50 mix paint:thinners Andrew? I think this is the ratio i used before but i can't remember. Any suggestions on a clearcoat? Doing this much work without a clearcoat would be a waste i think. |
Author: | Bitza [ 09 Feb 2015, 17:55 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
I tend to use the 25:75 mixing ratio, if the day is hotter use more thinner.......the 50:50 ration tends to dry too quickly and you may get "dry" patches in the paint........it's trail and error for the temperature. You can also purchase different "flash off" for thinners, just ask the paint shop and they will be able to help you. I use Protec super clear, very cheap and can give you a great shine after polishing. I'm assuming you will be using acrylic paint? As for your washer bottle tube hole, why not use an oval rubber grommet, I picked one up at my local auto parts store when I put the imported garnish on Bitza. |
Author: | Bitza [ 10 Feb 2015, 07:26 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
This may sound brutal, drive a flat headscrewdriver under the lip of the guard (sideways) to force the guard up, keep tension at the location while removing the bolt.......repeat for the other bolt. If that doesn't work, use a hammer and cold chisel to break them off, you will need to tap the threads again. |
Author: | 4cylturb [ 10 Feb 2015, 09:00 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
I've tried the flathead screwdriver and it won't work, not unless i want to bend the shit out of the panel or lip. Hammer and chisel time. I think i'll tap a slightly larger thread so i can use a bigger bolt cause as you can see from the photos the current bolt is barely holding the panel. I dread what's behind it once i get it off. Just picked up 3 litres of bosnian white. Will give me at least 5 and a bit more with thinners. Will see what kind of finish i get before i clearcoat. The bloke at the paint shop pretty much talked me out of using clearcoat on white. Just need the humidity in sydney to drop a little. |
Author: | Bitza [ 11 Feb 2015, 15:21 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
Nice.........hope you used plastic primer for those parts. Awesome to see you got the bolts out........just might have been a bit of rust on the bottom of the thread stopping them from being removed. Your repairs are looking excellent......well done. *thumbs up* |
Author: | 4cylturb [ 12 Feb 2015, 01:40 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
I'm using this stuff for the plastic bits as well as the bumper. Supposed to have some sort of flexible component in it. I'm cleaning everything up then sanding back with some 400 wet&dry. Then i wash it with soap and water, rub it down with metho and spray. On some parts i just rinse any soap residue with clean water, let it dry in the sun and then paint. Priming with this stuff seems to be down to personal choice, not absolutely necessary. So far it's gone on really nice, but time will tell. |
Author: | slythr [ 18 Feb 2015, 00:57 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
A tip for you, wet the floor with water before you spray. This will eliminate any dirt being blown into your wet paint by your gun. And it definitely needs more reducer as you mentioned, keen to see the finished results! |
Author: | 4cylturb [ 18 Feb 2015, 09:33 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
Thanks man but the final results will be a little disappointing. I just can't keep the paint wet long enough to blend it in. And when i do get the gun a little closer i get runs. I thoroughly vacuumed the place but honestly dust doesn't have a chance to stick to the paint. It's starting to really piss me off but what can i do. Hats off to all the spraypainters out there, not an easy graft this gig. What i really need is a gravity gun, but at this point i'm not prepared to fork over $200 for one. I'll post up pics when i'm done. Hopefully a good cut and polish will reduce my embarrassment at failing so badly with this. |
Author: | Bitza [ 18 Feb 2015, 11:24 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
What's you air pressure Simon? I spray at 2 bar (working pressure for solid colours) and tend to reduce the spray pattern to stop the outside of the fan drying as the paint comes out of the gun. If your paint is dry looking add more thinners, believe me with a good rub down between coats your final polish will look excellent. |
Author: | 4cylturb [ 19 Feb 2015, 13:38 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
I found the roof was the hardest part of the car to paint. Was an absolute bastard as i did it from one side of the car. A gravity gun would be miles easier to use for the roof. But this is the gun i was using. I cleaned the shit out of it before i started but disaster struck when doing the roof at one point, as flakes of old paint starting spitting out. That was a setback that lost me nearly half a day. My guess is the old paint came from inside the suck up pipe of the gun which i didn't even think about cleaning. Remember that if you ever do this yourself. Painting the panels was a lot easier. Did some pattern work for the carpet. You can see how long the hose is. Had one advantage though. Didn't need an air filter in the line as there would be little chance of any moisture making it the length of the hose. [/URL [URL=http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/siret23/media/DSC_0029_zps16570f59.jpg.html] Hard to decide if i should paint the black part before the white part. Went with white first, will tape up and then get the airbrush out for the black plastic. I finished with a third of a pot of paint in the gun, which would be about 50-100ml of actual paint. So i came close to using all 3 litres of paint plus i went through 6-7 litres of thinners. Worked out well in that respect. Now i just have to put it all back together. |
Author: | Bitza [ 19 Feb 2015, 16:51 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
That looks great Simon, with a 1200 grit rub back and a 2000 grade soft back sponge and a polish your car will look like a mirror!! That's about how an acrylic finish should look off the gun. Well done for giving it a go.............best way to learn. |
Author: | 4cylturb [ 19 Feb 2015, 22:47 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
Cheers Andrew. So the best thing to do now would be a wet rub with some 1200 grit and then use this sponge. Do you think buffing it with a cutting compound would do any good? |
Author: | Bitza [ 19 Feb 2015, 23:03 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
You can buff it with compound on the flat surfaces.........I hate BUFFS as they can easily burn through style lines etc........I always polish by hand, never with a buff for sensitive areas. |
Author: | TRQ-STR [ 19 Feb 2015, 23:39 ] |
Post subject: | Re: Repairs |
Use a da polisher and you will have way less issues with the style lines. I use a Contours polisher with Scholl compound and pads ordered from waxit.com.au. Good effort with the car, can not wait for the final result. |
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